Siwel
08-03-2008, 04:19 PM
It's time to get rid of all the old toys and get all new..
Location;
Parkersburg, WV
Zip; 26101
Price $10,000 - Non-Negotiable
Trans-Am WS6
T-roof
M6 6spd
Traction control (Disabled)
Engine / Drivetrain;
LS1 of course
SLP 1.85 Rocker Arms
SLP Titanium Valve Springs
SLP Chrome-Moly push rods
K&N Air Filter
Stock Throttlebody bored/polished (I had an aftermarket then swapped it out for this unit)
Stock MAF bored/polished (I had Granatelli but I had it and the TB atthe same time and car would not run right, thus I installed modified stock pieces)
Stock Air Lid de-baffled (Had a clear plastic one but it was a ***** to keep clean and sold it)
Pacesetter LT's & ORY-Pipe (Had Kooks on it and the Y cracked. I bought QTP's but did not put them on. In light of selling the car I purchased new, cheaper, Pacesetters)
Borla Cat-back
LCA's (Forget which brand, but theyre some new anti-bind type)
Panhard bar - Adjustable
SFC's welded on
10 Bolt GM rear w/3:73's, Eaton posi, and Moser axles. (Has maybe 800 miles on it since installed)
Hurst shifter w/short stick & stock shift knob.
Unsure what kind of clutch, it's either a RAM or a Centerforce. I cant remember
Hotchkis lowering springs
Bilstein shocks/struts revalved for the spring rate/drop
18x9.5 0Z1 deep dish wheels (Dont recall weight, but theyre ALOT lighter than the stockers)
Nexen N3000 Z-rated tires. 275/40 rear - 245/45 front
-
Currently it is in the shop. I just bought the Headers & ORY for it and they are being put on.
The Kooks LT & ORY setup I had on it, the Y broke unexpectedly. No clue why or how.
Along w/those, I bought new plugs/wires and 2 new o2 sensors.
I figure while it's being done I may as well replace it all.
So when I get it back, it will literally of had a complete tune-up.
The rear o2's have simulators so it will not throw any codes so you dont have to deal w/that annoying check engine light.
The current ECU in it is the stock one. I had one in it from PCM4Less but it was calibrated for the old rear end I had in it, which had 4:10's. I sent it back to be recalibrated, and for some reason I havent heard anything back from them. It runs fine w/the stock unit, but not nearly as strong as it did w/the revised one.
The Rearend I purchased complete, with new EVERYTHING. GM gears, and SLP install kit. Bearings ect. it's all new. I think I have put maybe 800 miles on it since it was put in. The first 200 of those were break-in. I did the heat-cycle break-in method on them. Dont know if it really works, or if it's just BS, but it didnt cost me anything but my time to do it, so that is what I did.
The LCA's PHB, SFC's, Springs, Shocks/Struts, were installed the same time as the rear-end was.
I flushed the clutch fluid when I bought it about a year ago. Probably wouldnt hurt to do it again. The clutch setup on these things are prone to sticking if the fluid is old. I havent had it happen, but it's better to stay one step ahead of a problem instead of waiting on it.
The trans was flushed at the same time, and I used GM's Synchro-Mesh (Spelling on that?)
I just changed the oil the weekend after I got it back from the shop for having the rearend ect. installed. I plan on doing it again this weekend once I get it back though. I have always ran Castrol in it since the day I got it. Everyone has their fav brand/type and im sure some may be better than others, but I have just always used Castrol. It has a K&N oil filter as well.
The K&N Air Filter was cleaned probably more regularly than needed. The ram-air setup on these cars gets them dirty rather quickly. I always oiled it properly, not just saturating it. Alot of FBody over-oil them, then the MAF gets dirty and the car doesnt run right. To take it a step farther, I always used MAF cleaner and a Q-Tip to keep the MAF clean just incase.
The TB has been ported/polished and the butterfly has been knife edged. The coolant bypass-mod was also done.
The alternator is about 6 months old give or take. I remember changing it, i just dont remember when. I did not buy a cheap-o Advanced or AutoZone special. I think I had over $300 in it. It's a 130amp if memory serves.
Fan belt was replaced when I replaced the alt. I wanted a gatorbelt but they didnt have one in stock when I did this. It has just a plain ole' belt on it but I have never had a problem w/it slipping.
Front ball joints & tierod ends were replaced a few weeks after I bought the car, as were all 4 brakes & rotors (Car had a slight shimmy while braking, so I had them all replaced & an alignment)
The side marker lights are all LED's. You cant tell it, but I got them because 2 were burned out and LED's last a long time.
The driving light's are both burnt out. I have 2 new bulbs for them sitting here but have not replaced them. You have to take the bumper off in order to get access to them unless youre REALLY skinny. My arm wont fit in where they go.
The front bumper has a crack in it, but nothing huge. If you had the front license plate filler (Which I dont) you would barely notice it. I dont know why/what/or how, it was like this when I bought the car.
I was working 100 miles away, meaning a 200 mile round trip. That's 1k miles per week. Thus this car seen alot of highway miles. Currently it has 130k on it. Most all of what I put on it is highway, with maybe 20% of it being in-town cruising if that.
The passenger door needs new door-pin bushings. I have them I just never have put them in. I dont ride in the passenger seat, so honestly I just never remember that they need to be changed. I bought them when I bought the car and just never did install them.
I really like this car alot, but I just have no need or room for it, and it's kind of pointless to keep it and let it sit.
I dont have any interior pics, but can take some when I get it back. It has black leather and it pretty much perfect except for a wear spot on the driver seat. The stock "H" Hurst shift knob is wore. I had a white Hurst 6 pattern ball on it, but took it off and put the stock leather one back on it because the ball was freezing cold in the winter (Yea I'm a sis)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0043.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0042.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0041.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0044.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0050.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0052.jpg
Location;
Parkersburg, WV
Zip; 26101
Price $10,000 - Non-Negotiable
Trans-Am WS6
T-roof
M6 6spd
Traction control (Disabled)
Engine / Drivetrain;
LS1 of course
SLP 1.85 Rocker Arms
SLP Titanium Valve Springs
SLP Chrome-Moly push rods
K&N Air Filter
Stock Throttlebody bored/polished (I had an aftermarket then swapped it out for this unit)
Stock MAF bored/polished (I had Granatelli but I had it and the TB atthe same time and car would not run right, thus I installed modified stock pieces)
Stock Air Lid de-baffled (Had a clear plastic one but it was a ***** to keep clean and sold it)
Pacesetter LT's & ORY-Pipe (Had Kooks on it and the Y cracked. I bought QTP's but did not put them on. In light of selling the car I purchased new, cheaper, Pacesetters)
Borla Cat-back
LCA's (Forget which brand, but theyre some new anti-bind type)
Panhard bar - Adjustable
SFC's welded on
10 Bolt GM rear w/3:73's, Eaton posi, and Moser axles. (Has maybe 800 miles on it since installed)
Hurst shifter w/short stick & stock shift knob.
Unsure what kind of clutch, it's either a RAM or a Centerforce. I cant remember
Hotchkis lowering springs
Bilstein shocks/struts revalved for the spring rate/drop
18x9.5 0Z1 deep dish wheels (Dont recall weight, but theyre ALOT lighter than the stockers)
Nexen N3000 Z-rated tires. 275/40 rear - 245/45 front
-
Currently it is in the shop. I just bought the Headers & ORY for it and they are being put on.
The Kooks LT & ORY setup I had on it, the Y broke unexpectedly. No clue why or how.
Along w/those, I bought new plugs/wires and 2 new o2 sensors.
I figure while it's being done I may as well replace it all.
So when I get it back, it will literally of had a complete tune-up.
The rear o2's have simulators so it will not throw any codes so you dont have to deal w/that annoying check engine light.
The current ECU in it is the stock one. I had one in it from PCM4Less but it was calibrated for the old rear end I had in it, which had 4:10's. I sent it back to be recalibrated, and for some reason I havent heard anything back from them. It runs fine w/the stock unit, but not nearly as strong as it did w/the revised one.
The Rearend I purchased complete, with new EVERYTHING. GM gears, and SLP install kit. Bearings ect. it's all new. I think I have put maybe 800 miles on it since it was put in. The first 200 of those were break-in. I did the heat-cycle break-in method on them. Dont know if it really works, or if it's just BS, but it didnt cost me anything but my time to do it, so that is what I did.
The LCA's PHB, SFC's, Springs, Shocks/Struts, were installed the same time as the rear-end was.
I flushed the clutch fluid when I bought it about a year ago. Probably wouldnt hurt to do it again. The clutch setup on these things are prone to sticking if the fluid is old. I havent had it happen, but it's better to stay one step ahead of a problem instead of waiting on it.
The trans was flushed at the same time, and I used GM's Synchro-Mesh (Spelling on that?)
I just changed the oil the weekend after I got it back from the shop for having the rearend ect. installed. I plan on doing it again this weekend once I get it back though. I have always ran Castrol in it since the day I got it. Everyone has their fav brand/type and im sure some may be better than others, but I have just always used Castrol. It has a K&N oil filter as well.
The K&N Air Filter was cleaned probably more regularly than needed. The ram-air setup on these cars gets them dirty rather quickly. I always oiled it properly, not just saturating it. Alot of FBody over-oil them, then the MAF gets dirty and the car doesnt run right. To take it a step farther, I always used MAF cleaner and a Q-Tip to keep the MAF clean just incase.
The TB has been ported/polished and the butterfly has been knife edged. The coolant bypass-mod was also done.
The alternator is about 6 months old give or take. I remember changing it, i just dont remember when. I did not buy a cheap-o Advanced or AutoZone special. I think I had over $300 in it. It's a 130amp if memory serves.
Fan belt was replaced when I replaced the alt. I wanted a gatorbelt but they didnt have one in stock when I did this. It has just a plain ole' belt on it but I have never had a problem w/it slipping.
Front ball joints & tierod ends were replaced a few weeks after I bought the car, as were all 4 brakes & rotors (Car had a slight shimmy while braking, so I had them all replaced & an alignment)
The side marker lights are all LED's. You cant tell it, but I got them because 2 were burned out and LED's last a long time.
The driving light's are both burnt out. I have 2 new bulbs for them sitting here but have not replaced them. You have to take the bumper off in order to get access to them unless youre REALLY skinny. My arm wont fit in where they go.
The front bumper has a crack in it, but nothing huge. If you had the front license plate filler (Which I dont) you would barely notice it. I dont know why/what/or how, it was like this when I bought the car.
I was working 100 miles away, meaning a 200 mile round trip. That's 1k miles per week. Thus this car seen alot of highway miles. Currently it has 130k on it. Most all of what I put on it is highway, with maybe 20% of it being in-town cruising if that.
The passenger door needs new door-pin bushings. I have them I just never have put them in. I dont ride in the passenger seat, so honestly I just never remember that they need to be changed. I bought them when I bought the car and just never did install them.
I really like this car alot, but I just have no need or room for it, and it's kind of pointless to keep it and let it sit.
I dont have any interior pics, but can take some when I get it back. It has black leather and it pretty much perfect except for a wear spot on the driver seat. The stock "H" Hurst shift knob is wore. I had a white Hurst 6 pattern ball on it, but took it off and put the stock leather one back on it because the ball was freezing cold in the winter (Yea I'm a sis)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0043.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0042.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0041.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0044.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0050.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/jayxsoprano/ws6/2008_0615obx0052.jpg