Supercharge?

[stinginStang]

what are the preferred brands of superchargers for an '08 GT and how much should I expect to pay? I've seen the Roush and Saleen superchargers for 5500 dollars - is that the going rate and should I expect to pay about that much? seems pretty steep...

[88GT]

I dont know what the going rate is, but a guy on another site won a saleen SC that was donated and installed it yesterday and showed it on a web cam. Took about 4-5 hours to install. pretty sweet deal.

[Masshole]

Kenne Bell is the way to go IMO. and its gonna run you about the same price, but a KB is way more efficient then any of the others out there.

[Trimdog]

Kenne Bell is the way to go IMO. and its gonna run you about the same price, but a KB is way more efficient then any of the others out there.

I can't believe I'm saying this: :shocked:but I agree with Masshole
And if you go to there web page, they give a 5% discount for the Mil.
http://www.kennebell.net/

[my86gt]

I can't believe I'm saying this: :shocked:but I agree with MassholeAnd if you go to there web page, they give a 5% discount for the Mil.
http://www.kennebell.net/

:lmao1: :lmao1: :lmao1:

[TrooperSeven]

Kenne Bell is the way to go IMO. and its gonna run you about the same price, but a KB is way more efficient then any of the others out there.

yea, Iv'e heard good things about Kenne Bell

[Roush-A-Roni]

KB for the WIN!

[johnisbubba]

Vortech's rock and are usually cheaper than KB

[FoxracerMenace]

Id say go with a kb big boy blower... :omg:

[Frosty]

what are the preferred brands of superchargers for an '08 GT and how much should I expect to pay? I've seen the Roush and Saleen superchargers for 5500 dollars - is that the going rate and should I expect to pay about that much? seems pretty steep...

Pretty much, make sure that price includes an intercooler, if your going to do a lot of daily driving. Also, be prepared to upgrade your engine block along with exhaust setup for maximum performance and reliablity.

Dropping a S/C on a bone stock block is not a good idea.:eek:

[stinginStang]

Pretty much, make sure that price includes an intercooler, if your going to do a lot of daily driving. Also, be prepared to upgrade your engine block along with exhaust setup for maximum performance and reliablity.

Dropping a S/C on a bone stock block is not a good idea.:eek:

expand - what block should you upgrade to? What are the drawbacks to a bone stock block?

[Masshole]

stock blocks can only handle so much HP before needed to do internal upgrades. a 4.6 2V will handle 450 and ive heard the 4.6 3V is higher. but even still your good till 450hp.

[Masshole]

Vortech's rock and are usually cheaper than KB

true, but they're not as efficient as a KB. thats why all others are cheaper cause well..... there cheap :lol:

[Trimdog]

expand - what block should you upgrade to? What are the drawbacks to a bone stock block?

Just to let you Know, the new 3V rocks,
you can put 500+ to the motor, BUT
There are other things to look at (fuel, clutch, BRAKES)
If you look in the last MM&FF, this guy is runny a S/C 490+
and then hit it with a 125 shot gas. Its doing mid 10's and on a stock 3V. :woot:Here's a link
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0711_2007_ford_mustang_ni trous_install/index.html

[Frosty]

expand - what block should you upgrade to? What are the drawbacks to a bone stock block?

You'll want to forge internals, pistons, rods, etc. The 3V stock, can only handle 435 to the fly safely. You can put up to that and over, but it's just a matter of time before you have a nice dent in your hood. Best bet is to either get the Boss 302 block or talk to your shop doing the install and map out a plan for the HP you want.

Some people get a S/C, like a friend of mine and then de-tune them for safe driving, for example he's pushing 454rwhp, but 404 Tq.

Remember, whenever you add boost, your breaking or putting due stress on other components tuned for the factory set up.

[Roushette]

You'll want to forge internals, pistons, rods, etc. The 3V stock, can only handle 435 to the fly safely. You can put up to that and over, but it's just a matter of time before you have a nice dent in your hood. Best bet is to either get the Boss 302 block or talk to your shop doing the install and map out a plan for the HP you want.

Some people get a S/C, like a friend of mine and then de-tune them for safe driving, for example he's pushing 454rwhp, but 404 Tq.

Remember, whenever you add boost, your breaking or putting due stress on other components tuned for the factory set up.

First, decide if you want to build up the bottom end at minimum to support 460+ at the wheels on a well tuned and supercharged 4.6L 3v. Key here, is the Tune and the reliability of the s/c.

I have seen many a ProCharger on these cars, D-S1s running 460 at the wheels on stock blocks all day long for two years as daily drives in Houston, Tx.

The blower goes only as far as the tuning and the buildup. I daily drive a 4.6L 3v with a Roushcharger set at 445 at the flywheel and it is warrentied by Roush. This is plenty for a daily driver.

Building the bottom end, or the top as well makes for stronger reliability and power capabilities. The trick here is in the machining and tolerances to go well with the fluids to be used in the car. Resulting in as much as a 15hp gain at the wheels again. This would offset the losses in efficiency from most blowers at a street driver level.

Contrary to popular belief, in building an 05+ GT Engine to support forced induction, can be reliable to 850 at the wheels. Race application, I have seen twin turboes running 1200 at the crank. Several here in Houston driving and racing them at 800 at the wheels. Each of the successes I have seen from here to San Antone are all centrifical blowers, in particular, a ProCharger.

For lower power, street manners, and reliability on a s/c with minimal changes to a stock system, I would choose from one of the following - Saleen, Roush, Ford racing, Magnacharger and Whipple.

[sc67stang]

You'll want to forge internals, pistons, rods, etc. The 3V stock, can only handle 435 to the fly safely. You can put up to that and over, but it's just a matter of time before you have a nice dent in your hood. Best bet is to either get the Boss 302 block or talk to your shop doing the install and map out a plan for the HP you want.

Some people get a S/C, like a friend of mine and then de-tune them for safe driving, for example he's pushing 454rwhp, but 404 Tq.

Remember, whenever you add boost, your breaking or putting due stress on other components tuned for the factory set up.

Looks about right with the exception of the max RWHP on the stock block.
I have heard you can go to 460 without any other changes. Spoke to a guy with a KB on his 07 and he had to change the pully size to drop the HP to 450.If your gonna change out engine blocks, just get a good crate engine and forget the SC.You can make some pretty good numbers NA! BOSS 302 FTW:bolt:. See link.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/sealed.asp

[Roushette]

Looks about right with the exception of the max RWHP on the stock block.
I have heard you can go to 460 without any other changes. Spoke to a guy with a KB on his 07 and he had to change the pully size to drop the HP to 450.If your gonna change out engine blocks, just get a good crate engine and forget the SC.You can make some pretty good numbers NA! BOSS 302 FTW:bolt:. See link.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/sealed.asp

Don't step away smartie pants - :nanana: He may want to keep his Original Engine in the car !!!! :P So, there are options either way - :gt4her:

[Masshole]

i'll just add this. i personally have seen an 06 GT make 468rwhp with a stock motor. and as you may kno we beat the bag off our cars up here, and its lasted through out his beating. and even i got to beat on it for a few minutes :woot: if your gonna make this a street car... you dont need no more then 450rwhp. you'll still run low 12's all day long with DR's. unless you got 4.10's or higher and your a wikkid sick racer.... then maybe high 11's.

[stinginStang]

That's some great info. I have much to learn and research. Thanks everyone!

[Roushette]

i'll just add this. i personally have seen an 06 GT make 468rwhp with a stock motor. and as you may kno we beat the bag off our cars up here, and its lasted through out his beating. and even i got to beat on it for a few minutes :woot: if your gonna make this a street car... you dont need no more then 450rwhp. you'll still run low 12's all day long with DR's. unless you got 4.10's or higher and your a wikkid sick racer.... then maybe high 11's.

+1 More then plenty HP for the street. What many forget is that a 12 second drag car is a fast car on the street in terms of perception.

Some, very mature individuals, can daily drive high HP. Albeit if it gets too high you have to roll in to it or it'll be spinning all over the place. And sometimes, depending on the car you are starting out with, not too many mods away into doing this before you are looking at suspension mods and new wheels and tires for the hookup.

[FredTT]

On these 3V motors, anything more the 435-440rwhp is a ticking time bomb. I've seen many guys who think they are good because they have a custom tune, etc and a couple months later there's a hole in their block.

The weak point in the 3V is the rods. What will happen is that under extreme pressure, they will flex and snap, and BOOM, time for a new engine.

I'm not saying this to scare you into not getting a S/C. I'm running a PowerDyne supercharger on my 05. I think I'm the only one in San Antonio with the powerdyne system. Its a centrifugal non-intercooled system. The reason I went with it was because one, it was cheap, and two, it gave exactly what I wanted, a nice safe boost in power (and that cool S/C whine!) I dyno at around 400 rwhp and I'm happy with it.

~Fred

[Roush-A-Roni]

it was cheap
~Fred

How much and who did the install?

[johnisbubba]

Im running 8lbs of boost on my mach with my vortech making 436rwhp. Really all the power
I need on the street. Centrifical superchargers make good power!!

[FredTT]

I purchased my Powerdyne Supercharger kit from R&E Racing back in March. Before you knockers start saying "Powerdyne Sucks" etc, unless you have one of your 05, don't be a wise ass. I won't lie, the reason I went with Powerdyne was because it was cheap! I wanted a safe amount of power, that would not harm my engine, and I didn't want to pay an arm and leg for it. So, I called up R&E, and we worked it out to $2,915.95 shipped. One hell of a deal! For all that, I got...

SCT Tuner with a Canned Powerdyne Tune
39# Injectors
BBK Wabro Fuel Pump
High-Flow MAM
and of course the S/C and all the parts needed for the install

The install wasn't too bad. A couple friends and I did the install on our own. The directions were pretty straight forward, and the color pictures really helped. We only had one problem with the actual install.

On the coolant cross-over tube, we needed to remove one of the pipes on the inside of it. The directions say to heat up the out side and then use a screwdriver to pull it out. We did that, and broke the screwdriver. We ended up having to take it to a machine shop to have them remove it.

Really, that was the only installation issue we had. After that, it was pretty much smooth sailing. Everything went in and installed perfectly.

Now, post installation, we had a ton of issue. Let me state for the record, ALL OF THESE ISSUES WERE OUR FAULT, not the fault of Powerdyne. These were all because of our crappy install. The reason I am putting these here is so that other people don't do the same mistakes.

1) The fuel pump cut out. Everything seemed to be working great. Unfortunately, I couldn't really test it, because I needed to get to work. I make it to work from my friends house, about a 10 mile drive. Leaving around 2:30AM, everything seemed to be fine for about 200 feet, until I hit a bump, and the fuel shuts off. I coast into a parking lot, and make a few calls. The tools arrive, we go into the gas tank, and find that the power wires were not crimped correctly, and they got loose and disconnected. We fix that up, and head back to a BBQ.

2) We get back and all is well. We come out around 4AM to go for a drive, and we see coolant all over the floor. Odd, we fill it with more coolant anyways and go driving again. As we get back from the short drive, and I'm getting ready to call it a night and go home, the car starts acting strange. Fuel is surging, and finally cuts off. We thought the wires came undone. This time its a little worse, the fuel pump actually failed. The brand new Walbro BBK fuel pump took a ****. Further investigation and we find that the filter had fallen off, possibly causing it to malfunction. It was 4AM, so we figured we would fix it in the morning. Next morning, we find out the the stock pump can handle about 450rwhp, so we put the stock pump back in. Turns out a local shop has a used Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump for sale for $150. I buy it and install it to make sure the stock pump can handle the pressure.

3) She's alive again, but leaking coolant. Not a huge leak, but a pretty significant one. As it turns out, we damaged one of the sealent/o-rings in the coolant crossover tube, and that created a leak in our coolant system. Had to order a new ring, and change it. Yay, things are finally looking up!!

4) Driving along normally, the fuel cuts out again. I roll into a parking lot (barely) and check the fuse for the pump...blown. Replace it with another 15A fuse, and it blows immediatly. I figure since the BAP is creating more voltage, it needs more current, so I put in a 20A and it works again. This is the end of my fuel issues!! *knocks on wood*

5) 1.5 months later...another coolant leak!!!! This time, it take almost a month to pinpoint it (granted I wasn't looking hard). Turns out one of the main coolant lines had shifted, and was on the belt. Apparently it had been there pretty much the entire time (a look back at the dyno video shows it on it). I didn't notice until I saw the belt starting to fray, and then I noticed it. Replaced the belt and tube, and now everything is working!!!

Nine months after the initial install, everything now seems to be working quite well. When I dynoed, the coolant tube was on the belt (no doubt robbing HP) and my AFR was (and still is) very rich (about 10.8:1). I'm holding out on the custom tune until I get my final performance mods (longtubes and a one piece ds). I think I pulled about 385rwhp with those two robbing power.

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All in all, I don't regret getting the Powerdyne. So far, it has worked just as advertised. It hits 7 PSI (advertised) around 5800RPM, which means I can probably hit more if I redline it. It provided a GREAT bang for my buck while giving me some piece of mind that my engine won't blow up. If you looking for a good, affordable HP gain, look into the Powerdyne. R&E has great pricing on them. Take my suggestion though, and this goes for all FI, if your not good with tools, let the professionals do it. Would of saved me five very big headaches!

~Fred

[Roush-A-Roni]

That's quite an experience, Fred. Lessons learned are priceless, so thanks for sharing. In my case, I don't have the tools, the time, nor the experience to go it alone. When the time comes, a shop will be my first stop.

[swervo]

Good info all. I believe it's all in the tune and how you treat your car is key to the longevity of your motor. I still wouldnt put more than 480rwhp max on my mach's stock block. I had my tuner give me a safe tune with only 460rwhp/479rwtq with only 7psi and 10* of timing. So far she's working great. As for the superchargers, KB and Whipple will be my choice, but my number one choice would be getting a turbo. They might be more expensive, but are alot more efficient and make more power per psi.

[sevenleaf]

I run a saleen SC on a 07 Mustang @11.5 PSI, drive 240 miles a day, it's perfect if you don't want to start upgrading the engine. If you want a lot of power and will be building up the engine go with whipple. :)

[RedFire2005]

I had the exact feelings about wanting to go s/c but not sure to which one to go with. Since my car was still under warranty I decided on the roushcharger. If a certified mechanic installs it then Roush picks up your warranty. A friend of mine with a procharger blew his motor the first run down the track. Ford would not replace it and voided his warranty.