Brake tool..

[Shane361]

I'm looking for a quality tool that you use to compress the rear brake piston. I'm tired of busting my knuckles with the cheap $10.00 pot medal one from the average auto parts store. Thanks in advance-Shane

[Darren]

did you try loosening the bleeder valve and taking the top off the brake fluid resivor to relieve the preasure? that may help, even with a cheap tool

[Aviator Stang]

did you try loosening the bleeder valve and taking the top off the brake fluid resivor to relieve the preasure? that may help, even with a cheap toolThat is what I was thinking...I never needed a special tool to push the piston back.

[Bulldog Stang]

C-Clamp .. .FTW!!!!

[Shane361]

I will try loosening the cover to see just how much that helps. Think I found the tool last night on the net though. You cant use a c-clamp to do rear Mustang brakes by the way-Shane

[Larry03gt]

You need to get a caliper tool from mac or snap-on. They have one that you can use an impact gun that twists and compreses at the same time. The thing works wonders!! I would never do rear brakes without it.

[Shane361]

You need to get a caliper tool from mac or snap-on. They have one that you can use an impact gun that twists and compreses at the same time. The thing works wonders!! I would never do rear brakes without it.

Nice, thats what Im talking about..Thanks!! :gt4her:

[mach1gsxr]

I will try loosening the cover to see just how much that helps. Think I found the tool last night on the net though. You cant use a c-clamp to do rear Mustang brakes by the way-Shane

Sure you can. I did it the first time I did my brakes. Granted it took three times as long as the fronts I still managed to get the job done. I wouldn't recommend it though.

[Shane361]

Sure you can. I did it the first time I did my brakes. Granted it took three times as long as the fronts I still managed to get the job done. I wouldn't recommend it though.


The rear brakes have a external thread that has to be twisted down back into place. Guess it could work but like you said isnt the rite way-Shane

[Shane361]

Well, just finished one side and did I mention rear brakes are a BIATCH?? I took the cap off but doubt that meant alot. I ended up filling two nipples down on another side of the cheap tool leaving me two working nipples on that side that were new. I couldn't hold the caliper tight enough and turn with one hand so I took the rotor off and installed the caliper without the brake pads. Then I could get two honds on the socket wrench and it twisted down about 5 times before it seated all the way down. That tells me that a c-clamp wouldn't work. Then put everything back together but getting the last bolt in was a pain depressing the brake pad springs. Time to repaint...errr-Shane

[ttowndex]

Yep, rear discs are a PITA to change the pads on.
And for Mach, and anyone else, if you used a C clamp and forced the piston back in, your caliper is toast and it WILL fail because of it. Maybe not right away, but more likely under hard braking when you need it the most.....the rear caliper piston screws out slowly to hold the pads in the correct position....what happens when you C clamp them is the threads are destroyed and the piston just floats in the caliper....as the pads wear down they will get loose and eventually may fall out and get jammed in the rotor or fall loose completely, which will open your brake system and cause total brake failure.....
In short, if you've C clamped rear brake pistons, you need to replace or rebuild your calipers ASAP!

[ttowndex]

Shane, for future reference, what I usually do is disconnect the line and take the caliper off completely....that way you can brace it (I usually just put it on the floor) and use both hands to keep pressure on the tool...