Need Car Help ASAP

[FL MISS]

OK, need some help on this one. My daughter has a '97 Cavalier that "died" this morning on her way to work. The wipers wouldn't work, then the radio died, then the car stalled and won't restart. The car made a clicking sound when you tried to restart it. We jumped it and brought it home (luckily she was only down the street) and it died as soon as we got it home.

I figure it's either the alternator or the voltage regulator..........how do I know the difference?

[J.E.M.]

far as i know a voltage regulator is like a altenator turns AC volts into DC that recharges the battery. if you can turn the car back on see how many volts are coming off the battery if its less than 13-14 then the altenator is dead. a lot of equipment i work on uses voltage regulators to recharge batteries.

good luck

[txlen]

sounds like to me either the alt took a dump or the batt has a short...

[FL MISS]

The battery was just replaced a couple months ago. I checked the car and when you try to start it, the "clicking" is coming from the alternator.......the turbine starts to turn then locks up. Am I right to think that's what needs replacing?

Unfortunately Chevy didn't put a gauge in the car to tell the voltage......only a gas gauge and a temp gauage.

[J.E.M.]

The battery was just replaced a couple months ago. I checked the car and when you try to start it, the "clicking" is coming from the alternator.......the turbine starts to turn then locks up. Am I right to think that's what needs replacing?

Unfortunately Chevy didn't put a gauge in the car to tell the voltage......only a gas gauge and a temp gauage.
take the altenator off and have it bench checked at a auto parts store. its cheaper than just buying a new one and end up not being the problem.

[JoeC]

Well, a couple suggestions. First, 'new' batteries do go bad - on occaision. It's happened to me. Generally a cell shorts-goes dead, and then even if the alternator is working it (the battery) will not hold a charge.

There's a simple test you can do even without removing the alternator if you have a simple voltmeter gauge. If not you can buy one at Radioshack for like $20. It's good to have one around the house any way.

Here's what I generally do:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal
2. With the voltmeter, measure the voltage at the terminals on the battery with the car off. Should measure 12.5-13.5 volts. Even if it measures 11 or so probably just means its discharged slightly due to load of running the engine, starting etc. Dont be worried about battery yet.
3. Reconnect the negative side of the battery.
4. Start the car
5. With car at idle measure the voltage again. Note reading.
6. Increase rpm to about 1000-1500 rpm and again measure voltage. Here you shoud definitely see 14-14.5 volts. If not, it's probably the alternator/voltage regulator.

Be aware that on new models of cars the voltage regulator is sometimes intergral to the alternator and cannot be replaced separately. Although, on some you can because it's external (but on the alternator). It all depends. Not real sure about GM products.

If you do remove the alternator and have it bench checked as suggested, more than likely if tests bad, they'll want you buy a whole new alternator. Thats appropriate if it's an intergral regulator, but I'd ask em if it has an external regulator and if so if they stock one. It's generally a LOT cheaper to replace the regulator if you can, then buying a new/rebuilt alternator.

One other thing, and dont miss a potentially easy fix. Corrosion on terminals can be extremely problematic if the buildup is bad. Be sure the terminals are clean and free of all corrosion.